Exciting!  The house sure seems bigger than it did a couple of weeks ago.  Here are a few shots of all that framing:

And the framer himself, Josh Steele, owner of JMS Construction:

I was worried about the trees, but except for a bit of trimming on the higher tree, they seem okay:

I only put a few pictures up in these posts.  To see more, go here.

I don’t always include all the pictures taken, but to see more of this remodel, you can go here.

Stucco – need to put paint on it to check color variation

Paint Color: Sherwin Williams

Paint Trim: Same

Roof:  Metal, color:  Twilight Gray

Exterior Doors:  Foxworth Galbraith

Windows:  same

Interior Doors:  same (handles as conference room) (solid to be stained, hollow to be painted)

Wall Color: SW 6122 Camelback

Wall Trim: SW 6120 Believable Bluff

Interior Base:  169763 (trim & shelves to be stained)

Interior Flooring:

  Score & Stain – Texas Etch & Score : wheat

  Tile – to be matched by Highland Lakes Floor Covering

Lighting:  Broadway Showroom

Cabinets:  Price’s Custom Cabinets:  Knotty Alder, with English chestnut stain

Countertops:  Parker Brother’s Natural Stone: Masabi Black

Plumbing Fixtures:  Ferguson Enterprises (tub delivered – Devonshire, color biscuit; right hand)

Appliances:  Kiva Kitchen & Bath (Mostly Whirlpool; Maytag frig?)

 Following is a guide to some kinds of flooring by Armstrong Floors.  All types will be discussed in the posts following this one.

Acid Stains are not paint, coating or a sealer.  Acid Stained Concrete is a coloring process involving a chemical reaction on a cementitious material.  A solution made with water, acid and inorganic salts reacts with minerals already present in the concrete (All concrete has calcium hydroxide as a byproduct. This is slaked limed, and picks up carbon dioxide from the air and becomes calcium bicarbonate, or efflorescence.  These are the chemicals that the stain reacts with).  Acid stains are made from hydrochloric acid, wetting agents and metallic ions. When this solution is placed on concrete, it colors the concrete by chemically combining the metallic ions with the particles in the concrete to form oxides, and the result of this reaction is color. 

Chemical stains can be applied to new or old, plain or colored concrete surfaces. Although they are often called acid stains, acid is not the ingredient that colors the concrete. Metallic salts in an acidic, water-based solution react with hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in hardened concrete to yield insoluble, colored compounds that become a permanent part of the concrete.  There are many manufactures of Acid Stain and most produce stain in 8 colors that are variations of three basic color groups: black, brown, and blue-green. 

The basic 8 colors are: 

Acid Stains give concrete a mottled, variegated, marble-like look.  Never expect Acid Stain to be uniform or have an even tone, as you will get different reactions from slab to slab.  Even on the same floor, you may see different coloration patterns. Variations of colors and mottling are to be expected and enjoyed.  It is the random mix of tones and shades that gives an acid stained floor its unique beauty.

Acid stains, unlike paints, are not opaque – they are translucent.  Some areas will be darker than others, similar to marble or flagstone.  Along with the naturally occurring variegations and marbling – any blemishes and imperfections in your concrete simply add character and charm. Even cracks can add to the look.

We use Texas Etch & Score  for all our stained concrete floor needs. 

Below are some pictures of their work:

 There is one problem with transforming your dull Gray Concrete into a Decorative Concrete Overlay or Acid Stained Floor. Once you make something pretty; you notice when it is dirty.  The information below will give you the knowledge needed to keep your surface looking its best. 

Interior Floor Care      Your Custom Interior Floor may last a lifetime if properly maintained.  Plastic glides, Felt Pads or Magic Movers should be affixed to heavy furnishings or those which will move frequently.  Use the same precautions you would use for a Hardwood Floor.  A Door Mat at the outside (Hemp or Rope style) and inside entrance (one with a solid backing that can be shaken off outside) of a home will pick up over 85% of the dirt that would otherwise be tracked inside.   

One important thing to mention about your walk-off mat is how to choose one.  For the first month, an open-back mat such as a carpet remnant should be used while the sealer/finish cures.  Plastic-backed products should NOT be used for your mats.  An acrylic or plastic backed mat can cause discoloration under and around the mat.  This phenomenon is called Plasticizer Migration.  This is caused when a plasticizer in a floor mat or floor material transfers itself (migrates) into the floor finish or sealer.  A Plasticizer is an ingredient of a floor finish (or flooring/mat product) that makes it more flexible and less brittle. This is accomplished with an additive which reduces intermolecular forces in the polymers. Since the intermolecular forces are reduced, the molecules in the Plastic mat surface next to your floor will actually want to bond with the molecules in the sealer MORE than the sealer bonds to the concrete. Then when you pull up the mat, you may be tearing up part of your sealer.  If a solid backed mat is used, it should be a mat with a backing of 100% Rubber material. 

Here is how to care for your floor: 

Daily dust mopping Daily dust mopping removes the fine dust and grit which can grind away floor finish. It will help prevent major floor finish deterioration caused by normal foot traffic.  The best results are obtained by using a Micro-Fiber Dust Mop.  The following procedures should be followed: 

v    Dust mop the floor in one continuous movement without lifting the mop off the floor. Overlap your stroke on each pass (you can also vacuum).v    Clean the dust mop after each use by shaking it outdoors, brushing it with a brush over a garbage can, or vacuuming it.   

v    NEVER use a “Swiffer Wet-Jet” type of cleaning tool.  The liquid in these devices contain trace amounts of Solvent material.  The Solvent will not harm the sealer but will cause the wax to egg-shell.  Also, you should not use Ammonia, Bleach or Pine Sol.  Damp mopping – use cool water 

v    Damp mopping with cool water and a neutral ph cleaner extends the floor finish life. It will not dull the finish and will enhance the gloss retention.v    Follow the recommended dilution rates on label directions.

v    The mop should be wrung out tightly so that it is just damp.  Do not allow the cleaning solution to puddle.  

Waxing Wax is the sacrificial coating to protect the sealer and bear the brunt of the scuff and scratches.  Your floor was installed with 4 coats of wax for the initial protection.  We leave the remaining wax with you so you know the type to use a 20% minimum solids wax.  No Mop-n-Glo or similar wax should be used.  

v    How often you need to re-wax depends on the abuse you, your children or pets put on the floor.  It varies by owner and may be anywhere from every 3 months to every year.

v    Use a looped-end Rayon mop — synthetics release material cotton absorbs – or a Lambs Wool Applicator.

v    Pour a dinner-plate sized puddle on the floor and spread it evenly and thinly.  Spread the material across the surface and let it dry for 1 hour.  You are now ready for foot traffic again. The use of a Floor Mat on the Outside and Inside of entry doors will pick up about 85% of dirt that would enter a home.  The use of mats is especially good if you are living in a new housing development.              

Troubleshooting:  

Problem                                Probable Cause               Solution 

  ***Don’t forget to rinse & clean the mop & bucket after use.  Shake or brush off dust mop before using.